Ingrown Hair Causes, Treatment and Prevention

Ingrown Hair Causes, Treatment and Prevention

How to Treat and Prevent Ingrown Hairs Effectively

Ingrown hairs (also referred to as ingrowing hairs) can be a common and frustrating issue which some people experience after hair removal (usually waxing or shaving). They occur when hair curls back or grows sideways into the skin, leading to inflammation, irritation, and sometimes infection. But with the right techniques and care, there is a lot you can do to effectively treat ingrowing hairs, and even better to prevent them from occurring in the first place.

In this guide, we'll cover everything from treatment to prevention to try and help you understand what you can do to keep your hair-free skin smooth and bump-free.

What Are Ingrown Hairs?

An ingrown hair is a strand of hair that grows back into the skin/hair follicle or sideways instead of outwards and is then treated by the body as a foreign object, leading to inflammation and potential bacterial infection. It usually appears as a small, discolored bump, which can sometimes be painful or itchy. Common areas where ingrown hairs occur include the face, neck, legs, armpits, and intimate/pubic area.

Ingrown hairs are also referred to as razor bumps or shaving bumps and can affect anyone who removes hair (via all methods - not just shaving and waxing). Those with curly and/or coarse hair are more prone to developing them.

Symptoms of Ingrown Hairs

The key signs of ingrown hairs include:

  • Small bumps: Typically with a hair trapped inside, causing a raised appearance.
  • Discolouration: Red, brown, or purple bumps may form, especially in people with darker skin tones.
  • Pain and itching: Ingrown hairs can cause discomfort and tenderness.
  • Pustules: If an infection occurs, you will start to notice pus-filled bumps.

    Treatment Options for Ingrown Hairs

    Warm Compresses
    Applying a warm compress to the affected area can help open your pores, softening the skin and making it easier for the ingrown hair to come to the surface. Hold the compress on the area for 10-15 minutes to soothe irritation.

    Exfoliation
    Regular exfoliation in between your hair removal treatments such as shaving and waxing is key to removing dead skin cells that can trap hair under the skin. Use a gentle scrub that is suitable for the area you are treating, or an exfoliating brush in circular motions to help release the hair. The intimate and bikini area is particularly prone to ingrown hairs due to the curly, coarse nature of pubic hair. In this case, it is essential that you use an exfoliating scrub that is suitable for the intimate and bikini area.

    Moisturise
    Keeping the area moisturised and hydrated will also help ingrown hairs. Hair finds it much harder to break through dry, flaky skin, which is one reason why it might start to grow back on itself or sideways. The softer and supple you keep your skin, the easier it will be for the regrowing hair to break through the skin’s surface. Again, if treating the bikini and intimate/pubic region, make sure you use a moisturiser that is suitable for this delicate area of the body.

    Don't Pick or Tweeze
    It can be tempting to pick or tweeze ingrown hairs, but this can lead to infection and scarring. Instead, gently exfoliate and try and let the hair grow out on its own.

    Topical Treatments
    If you have recurring ingrown hairs, using a topical cream or solution containing ingredients such as salicylic acid and/or glycolic acid can significantly ease the problem. Use of these specialist ingrowing hair products can also  help reduce inflammation and promote faster skin healing. You can also use antibiotic creams if an infection is present.

    Laser Hair Removal or Electrolysis
    For a longer-term hair removal solution than methods such as shaving and waxing, consider other hair removal techniques such as laser hair removal or electrolysis. These treatments target hair follicles and reduce future hair growth, preventing the occurrence of ingrown hairs.

    Preventing Ingrown Hairs

    Exfoliate Inbetween Shaving and Waxing
    Regular gentle exfoliation before you shave or wax and then inbetween your hair removal treatments helps to remove dead skin cells and lifts hair away from the skin  This makes it less likely for hairs to become trapped after shaving. You will get a better result from shaving and waxing if you do gently exfoliate in the days leading up to when you remove the hair, because all debris (such as dead skin, sweat, old moisturisers and dirt) all will have been removed from the skin, making it more likely that the hair you want removing will be removed. However, do not over-exfoliate or use a product that is too harsh because if you graze or irritate the skin at all prior to hair removal, this could make the problem worse.

    Prime the Area for Shaving
    If shaving is your preferred form of hair removal, make sure to wet your skin with warm water before shaving it. This softens both the hair and skin, making the shaving process smoother. Apply a shaving gel or foam to further reduce friction. 

    Use the Right Razor
    A single-blade razor is generally better than multi-blade razors for preventing ingrown hairs. Multi-blade razors can cut hair too short, making it easier for them to grow back into the skin.

    Shave in the Direction of Hair Growth
    Always shave in the direction your hair grows, as shaving against the grain increases the likelihood of irritation and ingrown hairs.

    Rinse the Blade After Every Stroke
    A clean razor blade helps ensure a smooth shave, reducing the risk of dragging and causing irritation. Rinse the blade after each stroke and change razors regularly.

    Shave Less Often
    If you experience frequent ingrown hairs, consider shaving less often to give your skin time to heal and recover between shaves.

    Consider Other Forms of Hair Removal
    Be aware that the way that shaving cuts the hair off at skin level gives the hair a blunt edge. It is this blunt edge that often makes it harder for the regrowing hair to break through the skin. Take particular care when shaving the pubic hair and for this area in particular, consider other forms of hair removal which are less likely to leave you with ingrowing hairs, especially in the pubic area.

    Choose your Waxing Specialist Carefully
    Because waxing weakens the hair follicle and will eventually lead to sparser, finer regrowth (Vs shaving which results in thicker, stronger and more stubbly regrowth), waxing as a mode of hair removal is better suited than shaving to anyone who is prone to ingrowing hairs. However, make sure you choose a proficient, experienced waxing therapist or waxing salon and make sure that they use the correct type of wax for the area. Bad technique when waxing, and/or the use of incorrect products (e.g. the use of strip wax on bikini and pubic areas instead of warm/hot wax) can cause hairs to break off under the skin, rather than being removed from the root. Snapped hairs can also lead to ingrowing hairs.

    Avoid the Sun Immediately After Hair Removal
    Try and stay out of direct sunlight for 24 - 48 hours or until any redness or sensitivity from your hair removal treatment has subsided. Your skin is more sensitive to the sun after hair removal and exposure can lead to dark spots, especially if you're on certain medications.

    Let your Skin Breathe After Waxing and Shaving
    It's also crucial to allow your skin to breathe immediately after you have removed the hair. Avoid tight clothing, which can irritate the skin and potentially cause ingrown hairs. Also, resist the urge to touch the freshly waxed or shaved area. Our hands carry germs that can transfer to the open hair follicles, which can lead to irritation, spots, and ultimately infection.

    Don’t Exercise After Waxing
    Avoid exercising or any other vigorous activity which makes you sweat in the 24 - 48 hours after any form of hair removal which removes hair from the root (such as waxing). The creation of sweat will block your pores which is a fast-track way to ingrown hairs.

    Avoid soaking and steam
    After waxing and tweezing, the empty hair follicles are more susceptible to bacteria. While showering is fine, avoid hot baths, pools, steam rooms, saunas for a day or two to prevent exposure to bacteria or chlorine that can irritate the skin. 

    Moisturise After Shaving and Waxing
    After shaving and waxing, apply a moisturiser to soothe and hydrate the skin. Look for products with naturally anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties such as tea tree oil, benzoin and aloe vera.

    What To Do if you Already Have an Ingrown Hair

    • If the ingrowing hair is inflamed or already has yellow/white puss around it, like a spot or boil then you should avoid the use of a granular based exfoliator. Regular and gentle use of granular exfoliators are better suited to stopping the ingrown hairs from developing in the first place, rather than treating ingrown hairs especially once they are already showing signs of infection. Any kind of abrasive exfoliation at this point (including the use of a body brush or exfoliating cloth) could increase inflammation in the area and cause the ingrowing hair and surrounding skin to feel quite sore.

    • Keep the area clean using a tea tree based wash which is naturally antibacterial and antimicrobial. Avoid touching or rubbing the area.
    • Remove the top layer of dead skin cells by spot applying a liquid based specialist ingrown hair treatment containing either salicylic or glycolic acid. This should be applied daily until the problem starts to subside using a clean cotton bud and applying a small amount to the affected area.
    • Avoid using heavily perfumed body lotions or oil as this could further clog the pores/hair follicles. Instead, we would recommend a tea tree based cream to keep the area clean.
    • Do not wear tight clothing in the area. 

    Tempting as it is, avoid breaking the skin and trying to remove the ingrowing hair.

    When to Seek Professional Help

    In most cases, ingrown hairs will resolve on their own with proper care and treatment. 

    However, if you notice severe pain, swelling, or signs of infection (such as pus or increased redness) and the use of the tea tree -based wash, specialist ingrown hair treatment and a tea tree lotion doesn’t help, you should seek advice from your GP or a healthcare professional as you may require the use of a steroid cream or antibiotic cream at this point.

    When they arise (pun intended), ingrown hairs can be annoying, unsightly and uncomfortable. But in most cases, the right hair removal practices and body care routine will significantly reduce their occurrence. Follow our advice to help prevent ingrowing hairs from appearing in the first place and to ensure they disappear quickly and without bother if they do strike.

    Your smooth and healthy skin will thank you for it.

    Back to blog

    Leave a comment

    About nkd

    For the last 15 years, nkd ( ) has been best known for being an award-winning chain of specialist waxing salons which were founded in 2009 by Rebecca Dowdeswell.

    More recently, nkd has diversified into product development and has launched a range of essential waxing aftercare products under the (nkd) brand which are sold direct to consumer (D2C) as well as on a trade basis into other salons, spas and waxing professionals.

    Rebecca now shares her expertise and experience with other salon owners and waxing specialists to help them make as much of a commercial success out of waxing as she has always done. Before closing her Nottingham city centre salon at the end of 2023, nkd was generating annual salon group revenues in excess of half a million pounds from waxing treatments and waxing aftercare product sales alone. Rebecca’s particularly passionate about helping other salon owners and beauty therapists become better business people and helping them make more money from the extremely lucrative and profitable treatment area that waxing can be. Rebecca’s also a big believer in the benefits of simplifying your beauty business and becoming a treatment area expert by streamlining the amount of service areas you offer.